I have had a brilliant couple of days. Yesterday I went out to visit the penguin colony near Ancud. And although I couldn{t get out to the colony on a boat as the sea was too rough I could just see the tiny little magellanic and Humbolt penguins through my binos. I met up with 8 Israelis and have bumped into them several times now! Chiloe really is quite small. After the penguins I took a drive down the coast - the mar Brava the wild sea. Really quite specatcular.

Today I drove down to Chonchi - the road was being resurfaced and had my scariest drive in the mud behind a Shell tanker! Lots of mud and not much movement and strange noises from the wheels but it turned out just to be more mud in the arches! Phew!!! I{m staying at Esmerald by the sea, a wee hostelry owned by a Canadian. I have just had mussels and salmon from Carl{s farm for tea!! Fab! I will try to go over to the west coast tomorrow to visit the national park. I{m still keeping my eyes peeled for some sundews. Maybe there{ll be some in the Cordillera on the way across.